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In this guide
To sew on a button, knot a doubled thread, stitch through the button's holes and the fabric four to six times, leaving a little space under the button, then wrap the thread round those stitches to make a short stem (a shank) and tie off on the inside. It takes about 10 minutes. Buttons that come off again usually weren't given a shank, so the fabric and thread were squeezed every time the button went through the hole.
What to check first
- Where the button goes. Look for the old holes or the little tuft of thread left behind. If there's nothing, button the garment up and push a pin through the buttonhole to mark the spot.
- The fabric around it. If the button tore a hole when it came off, mend that first, or back it with a small square of fabric or a tiny backing button on the inside.
- The button type. Flat buttons with two or four holes, and shank buttons with a loop on the back, are sewn on slightly differently (see below).
What you need
- Thread that matches the other buttons. Polyester all-purpose thread is strong enough for shirts and trousers; use button thread or upholstery thread for coats.
- A hand-sewing needle that passes through the button holes.
- A cocktail stick, matchstick or pin to make the space for the shank.
- Scissors. A basic sewing kit has all of this.
- A spare button, if the old one is lost. Many shirts and coats have a spare sewn inside, near a side seam or on the care label.
How to sew on a flat button
- Thread the needle with about 60 cm (2 ft) of thread, pull the ends level so it's doubled, and knot them together.
- Start on the right side, under where the button will sit, with a small stitch through the fabric, so the knot is hidden under the button. Take a second tiny stitch in the same place to lock it.
- Put the button on the needle and slide it down to the fabric.
- Lay a cocktail stick or pin across the top of the button, between the holes. Your stitches go over it, which leaves slack for the shank.
- Stitch up and down through the holes and the fabric, going over the stick each time. Four to six passes is enough for a shirt; a coat button wants a few more. On a four-hole button, make two parallel bars or a cross, matching the other buttons on the garment.
- Take out the stick and pull the button away from the fabric so the slack stitches stand up underneath it.
- Make the shank. Bring the needle up between the button and the fabric and wind the thread tightly round the stitches five or six times.
- Finish off. Push the needle to the inside, take three or four small stitches on top of each other through the back of the button stitches, and trim the thread.
Shank buttons and coat buttons
Shank buttons have a loop on the back instead of holes, so they make their own space. Stitch through the loop and the fabric four to six times, keeping the loop lined up with the buttonhole, then finish off on the inside.
Coat buttons carry more strain and sit on thicker fabric. Use strong button thread, a longer shank (about the thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole), and a small flat backing button on the inside, stitched through at the same time. The backing button spreads the pull so it can't tear the fabric.
Thread and button types compared
| Button | Best thread | Shank | What to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shirt button (2 or 4 holes) | Polyester all-purpose | Short, about a pin's width | Match the stitch pattern of the other buttons |
| Trouser waistband button | Polyester or button thread | Short | Takes a lot of pull: use more passes |
| Coat button | Button or upholstery thread | As thick as the fabric | Add a backing button on the inside |
| Shank button | Polyester or button thread | Built in | Line the loop up with the buttonhole |
| Jeans button (tack button) | None | Built in | Hammered on, not sewn; replace with a no-sew jeans button |
Don't
- Don't sew the button flat and tight to the fabric. It won't do up properly and will pull off again.
- Don't use a single strand of thin thread on a coat or waistband.
- Don't finish with just a knot. Lock the thread with a few small stitches first.
- Don't guess the position. Mark it through the buttonhole.
Common questions
How many times should you sew through a button?
Four to six passes through each pair of holes for a shirt, and a few more for a coat or waistband. More than that makes a hard lump without adding much strength.
Should you use single or double thread to sew on a button?
Double thread is quicker and stronger for most buttons, because each pass lays two strands. Use a single strand of heavier button thread for coats if a doubled strand won't fit through the holes.
Why do buttons keep falling off?
Usually the thread was too thin, there were too few passes, there was no shank, or the thread was only knotted at the end. Thread can also be cut by the sharp edges of some button holes; a shank and stronger thread help.
How do you replace a button on jeans?
Most jeans buttons are hammered through the fabric rather than sewn. You can buy no-sew replacement buttons that push or screw together through the waistband, or sew on an ordinary shank button with strong thread.
The short version
Mark the spot through the buttonhole, stitch through the button and fabric four to six times over a cocktail stick, then take the stick out and wind the thread round the stitches to make a shank. Lock the thread with small stitches on the inside, and use strong thread and a backing button on coats.
Related: how to sew on a patch by hand and how to patch a hole in jeans.
Based on manufacturer instructions and established sewing practice. How we write our guides.