How to sew on a patch by hand

Sewing is the most secure way to attach a patch. It works on almost any fabric, including the nylon, polyester, leather and waterproofs that can't take an iron, and a sewn patch survives washing far better than a glued one. You don't need a sewing machine or any experience. One stitch, done neatly, is all it takes.

Allow 15 to 30 minutes for a palm-sized patch.

What you need

• A sharp needle. A general sewing needle works for most fabrics. For thick denim, canvas or leather, use a heavier needle made for that material.
• Polyester thread that matches the patch border, or clear nylon thread if you want stitches to disappear. Polyester is stronger than cotton thread.
• Pins or a fabric clip to hold the patch while you sew. A dab of fabric glue or a quick press with an iron also works.
• Scissors.
• A thimble (optional, but it saves your fingers on denim).

A basic sewing kit covers all of this. Prefer a UK sewing shop? Abakhan and The Trimming Shop both sell needles, thread and haberdashery online.

How to sew on a patch, step by step

1. Position the patch. Try the garment on or lay it flat to check placement. Pin it at each corner, or iron it on lightly if it has an iron-on backing.
2. Cut and thread about 60 cm (2 ft) of thread. Longer lengths tangle. Pull it through the eye and tie a knot at one end (single thread) or knot the two ends together (double thread, which is stronger).
3. Start from the inside. Push the needle up from inside the garment so it comes out just inside the patch border. The knot stays hidden inside.
4. Use a whip stitch around the edge. Take the needle down into the garment just outside the patch edge, then bring it back up through the patch just inside the border, about 3 to 5 mm (⅛ to ¼ in) along. Repeat all the way round. Each stitch wraps over the edge of the patch.
5. Keep stitches small and even. Smaller stitches are stronger and less visible. Sewing into the raised border (the "merrowed" edge) helps hide them.
6. Keep the tension steady. Pull each stitch snug but not tight, or the fabric will pucker.
7. Finish inside. When you're back at the start, push the needle through to the inside, make two or three small stitches on the spot, and pass the needle through the loop to knot it. Trim the thread.

Tip for sleeves and bag pockets: keep one hand inside so you don't sew the front and back together.

Which stitch to use

Thick fabrics and tricky spots

• Denim and canvas: use a thimble to push the needle, and a pair of pliers to pull it through if it sticks.
• Leather: use a leather needle and waxed thread, and don't try to re-do holes, because they're permanent.
• Bags and backpacks: sew through the outer layer only, and avoid waterproof linings if you can.
• Hats: remove any inside sweatband stitching if you need to get behind the front panel, or use fabric glue for the front of a structured cap.

Don't

• Don't use cotton thread on things that get wet often. Polyester lasts longer.
• Don't pull stitches too tight. Puckering looks messy and strains the fabric.
• Don't sew across PVC patches with huge stitches. Use the stitching channel around the edge if it has one.

Common questions

What is the easiest way to sew on a patch?

A whip stitch around the edge with a double thread. Hold the patch in place first with pins, a clip, or a quick press with an iron if it has an iron-on backing.

Do I need a sewing machine to sew on a patch?

No. Hand sewing is easier for most patches, especially on sleeves, bags and hats, where a machine can't reach.

What colour thread should I use for a patch?

Match the colour of the patch's border so the stitches blend in, or use clear nylon thread to make them nearly invisible.

Can you sew on an iron-on patch?

Yes, and it's a good idea for anything that gets washed often. Iron it on first to hold it in place, then stitch around the edge. See how to iron on a patch.

Based on manufacturer instructions and established sewing practice. How we write our guides.