How to fix a patch that's peeling off

This page contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Learn more.

Most peeling patches can be saved. If it's an iron-on patch and only the edges are lifting, re-press it with a dry iron and a pressing cloth, then press again from the inside. If the glue has worn out, add a fresh layer of iron-on adhesive or textile glue. If it keeps lifting, stitch around the edge, which is the only fix that's close to permanent.

The thing that usually goes wrong is re-ironing over and over when the glue on the back has already gone. Once it stops going tacky under heat, more ironing won't help.

First, work out why it's peeling

Look at the back edge of the patch and the fabric underneath.

• Shiny or tacky glue still on the back: the glue is there, it just wasn't pressed in properly. Re-iron it.
• Dry, powdery or no glue left: the adhesive has worn out, often from hot washes or the tumble dryer. Add new adhesive or sew.
• Broken thread on a sewn patch: the stitches have worn or snapped. Re-sew the loose section.
• Patch on nylon, polyester, waterproof or stretchy fabric: iron-on glue doesn't grip these well. Sew or glue.
• PVC or rubber patch: never iron it. Use a glue that suits PVC, or sew it on through the stitching channel.

Check the garment's care label before using any heat. If the iron symbol has one dot or a cross through it, skip the ironing methods below.

Fix 1: re-iron it (glue still there)

1. Clean the area. Brush off fluff and make sure the fabric and patch are dry.
2. Heat the iron to the hottest setting the care label allows, with steam off.
3. Lay the garment flat on an ironing board and smooth the patch into place.
4. Cover it with a thin cotton cloth, such as a tea towel.
5. Press firmly for about 30 seconds without moving the iron. Lean on the loose edges in particular.
6. Turn the garment inside out and press from the back for another 30 seconds. This step does most of the work.
7. Let it cool completely before touching or wearing it, and wait a day before washing.

Our full guide on how to iron on a patch covers settings and timings in more detail.

Fix 2: add fresh iron-on adhesive (glue worn out)

Fusible web, a thin sheet of heat-activated glue sold for sewing and crafts, gives an old patch a new backing.

1. Pick off any loose, crumbly glue from the back of the patch. Don't scrape the embroidery.
2. Cut a piece of fusible web slightly smaller than the patch, so it won't show at the edges.
3. Fuse it to the back of the patch following the instructions that came with it. Most have a paper backing you peel off once it has cooled.
4. Iron the patch onto the garment as in Fix 1, with a pressing cloth and pressure from both sides.

This only works on fabrics that can take a hot iron.

Fix 3: glue it (heat-sensitive fabric)

A washable textile glue works where you can't use an iron, such as on nylon, polyester or leather.

1. Lift the loose edge gently and clean away any old crumbly adhesive.
2. Apply a thin layer of glue under the loose part, keeping it a few millimetres back from the edge so it doesn't squeeze out.
3. Press it down and hold it with clips, or put a heavy book on top with baking paper between.
4. Leave it to cure. Most textile glues need a day or more before washing. Follow the instructions, and ventilate the room if it's a solvent-based glue.

Fix 4: stitch it (the permanent fix)

If a patch has peeled once, it will probably peel again. A few stitches around the edge stop that for good, and you can do it on top of any of the fixes above.

Use polyester thread matching the border and a whip stitch, going over the edge of the patch about every 3 to 5 mm (⅛ to ¼ in). You only need to stitch the part that lifts, though going all the way round is stronger. For a sewn patch with broken stitches, unpick the loose threads and re-sew that section, overlapping the old stitches by about 1 cm (⅜ in). Our guide on how to sew on a patch by hand shows the stitch step by step.

Which fix to use

Don't

• Don't keep re-ironing a patch with no glue left. It won't stick, and repeated heat can scorch the fabric.
• Don't iron PVC or rubber patches. They melt.
• Don't use superglue. It sets hard and brittle, can mark fabric, and cracks when the garment bends.
• Don't tumble dry patched clothes. Heat and tumbling are a common cause of peeling. Wash inside out on a cool cycle and air dry.

Common questions

Can you re-iron a patch that's peeling?

Yes, if there's still glue on the back. Use a dry iron, a pressing cloth and firm pressure for about 30 seconds, then press from the inside. If it lifts again straight away, the glue is spent.

What glue is best for a peeling patch?

A washable textile or fabric glue made for patches. Avoid superglue and general craft glue, which aren't designed to survive washing. Follow the instructions on curing time.

Why does my iron-on patch keep coming off in the wash?

Usually because it was washed too soon, washed too hot, or tumble dried. The glue softens with heat. Wash cool and inside out, air dry, and add a few stitches for anything washed often.

How do you fix a peeling patch on a polyester jacket?

Don't use heat. Glue the loose edge with a textile glue, or stitch around the patch. Sewing is the more reliable fix.

Based on manufacturer instructions and established sewing practice. How we write our guides.