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In this guide
Visible mending means repairing a hole or worn patch so the repair shows on purpose, usually with a contrasting patch and rows of neat running stitch. Sashiko is a Japanese stitching tradition of running stitch in thick thread, originally used to reinforce and repair work clothes, and it's the style most people mean when they talk about visible mending today. You only need one stitch, and an uneven first attempt still looks good.
What to check first
- The fabric. Visible mending suits woven fabrics like denim, canvas, cotton and linen best. For knitwear, use darning instead (see how to darn a hole in a jumper).
- How worn the area is. Hold the garment up to the light. Plan a patch that covers the hole and the thin fabric around it, plus about 1.5 cm (⅝ in) on every side.
- Where it bends. Knees and elbows need looser stitching and a slightly bigger patch.
What you need
- A patch of fabric a similar weight to the garment, or a little lighter. Old jeans, a shirt or a scrap of canvas all work. Cotton is easiest to sew.
- Thick thread. Sashiko thread is made for this; stranded embroidery floss (using all six strands) or perle cotton also work.
- A long, sharp needle with a big eye. Sashiko needles let you load several stitches at once.
- Pins, scissors, and a chalk pencil or washable fabric marker.
- Optional: an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric flat, and a thimble for denim.
Your first visible mend, step by step
- Trim loose threads round the hole.
- Cut a patch that covers the hole and worn area with a 1.5 cm (⅝ in) margin. Round the corners, which stops them lifting.
- Decide inside or outside. A patch behind the hole shows through like a little window, which is the classic sashiko look. A patch on top is bolder and covers more.
- Pin or tack the patch in place, keeping the garment flat. Slide a piece of card into a trouser leg or sleeve so you don't catch the other side.
- Mark guide lines with chalk: straight parallel lines about 5 to 8 mm (¼ in) apart across the patch, running past its edges onto the sound fabric.
- Knot the thread and start on the inside, at the end of a line.
- Sew running stitch along each line: the needle goes in and out at even spacing, with stitches about 3 to 6 mm (⅛ to ¼ in) long. Aim for stitches on top that are slightly longer than the gaps between them. Load a few stitches onto the needle before pulling it through.
- Leave a small loop at the end of each row before you start the next, so the fabric can still move and stretch.
- Cover the whole patch, including across the hole and onto the garment on every side. The stitching holds the frayed edges flat and fixes the patch in place.
- Finish off on the inside with a few small stitches, then trim.
Visible mending styles compared
| Style | Looks like | Best for | What to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rows of running stitch | Simple stripes over a patch | First projects, knees, jeans | Quick; the more rows, the stronger |
| Grid or cross stitch | A woven-looking check | Bigger holes and very worn areas | Sew one set of rows, then a second at right angles |
| Sashiko patterns | Geometric patterns such as waves or interlocking shapes | Decorative mends and reinforcement | Patterns can be printed and traced; slower but striking |
| Boro-style layering | Several overlapping patches | Very worn denim and workwear | Patches can overlap and be added over time |
Ideas for your first project
- A knee hole in jeans. Put a contrasting cotton patch behind the hole and stitch horizontal rows across it, leaving the knee a little loose.
- A frayed jacket cuff. Fold a strip of fabric over the cuff edge and stitch rows along it.
- A worn jacket elbow. Reinforce it with rows of stitching before it opens into a hole.
- A shirt with a small tear. Put a scrap of fabric behind the tear and stitch a small square grid.
For holes where you'd rather the repair didn't show, see how to patch a hole in jeans. If you'd prefer a ready-made patch, our patch layout tool helps you plan where it goes.
Don't
- Don't pull stitches tight. It puckers the fabric and makes the repair stiff.
- Don't stop the stitching at the edge of the hole. Carry it onto the sound fabric.
- Don't use thin sewing thread. It disappears and doesn't reinforce much.
- Don't worry about perfect stitches. Even spacing matters more than identical length.
Common questions
What thread do you use for sashiko?
Sashiko thread is a thick, tightly twisted cotton made for this kind of stitching. Stranded embroidery floss using all six strands, or perle cotton, are good alternatives you can find in most craft shops.
Do you need a special needle for sashiko?
A sashiko needle is long and sharp with a large eye, which lets you load several stitches at once. A long embroidery or crewel needle works for small projects.
Is visible mending strong?
Yes, as long as the patch reaches sound fabric and the stitching covers the whole worn area. Closely spaced rows of running stitch reinforce the fabric as well as hold the patch.
Should the patch go on the inside or the outside?
Inside gives the classic look of a hole framed by stitching. Outside covers more, and is easier when the hole is large or ragged. Both are equally strong if stitched well.
The short version
Put a fabric patch behind or on top of the hole, covering the worn area with a margin, then sew close rows of running stitch in thick thread across the patch and onto the sound fabric. Keep the tension loose and the spacing even, and don't worry about perfection.
Based on manufacturer instructions and established sewing practice. How we write our guides.